I have a 2018 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV, so the post facelift with the 2.4Ltr engine, and the electronic handbrake. The motor mount change is the same as the earlier PHEVs, but changing the rear pads/discs is different with a manual handbrake.
Took this in to the dealer for it's annual service, and they pointed out a few things that would fail the MOT ("Ministry of Transport" safety check, required every year, after a car is 3 years old in the UK). They couldn't actually do any of the work for 7 days, so I needed a "Plan-B"! Had a phone around, and all the local places were booked up for 10+ days. Then noticed that over the phone they said one thing ("Needs rear pads and discs, suspension struts, and rear motor mount for an MOT, front discs and pads soon"), the paperwork said another ("Needs rear pads, would suggest rear discs, rear motor mount, and front front suspension dust covers for an MOT, front pads soon, would recommend discs as well"), then the video walkthough of the issues had a different slant ("Needs rear pads, rear motor mount, front dust covers soon, check front pads within the year").
I've not worked on a car for around 20 years, but have worked on cars/motorbikes in the past, and still have a reasonable toolkit. So looked at what I could do. Looking at the items:
I borrowed some ramps, and parked the Outlander on them, then chocked the front wheels.
Removed the nut from the end of the long bolt. Used a 17mm spanner on the bolt head (behind) and a 17mm socket on the nut. But the other 3 bolts (also 17mm) were jammed, so I sprayed some WD40 on them, and stopped for a coffee.
After a short soak, they came off no problem, with a bit of wiggling, the bracket came out. Here are the new and old, side-by-side. The old one is only split about 30% of the way through, so might just be an MOT advisory rather than a fail, but may as well do it now I'm this far.
Fitting the new one was trivial, I used a block of wood to support the engine, so that the bracket holes lined up, this made it easier to get the bolts in. Tighten all up, and it's done!
From driving onto the ramps, to driving off was 75 minutes, of which about 20 minutes of that was drinking coffee, while the WD40 did it's work.
Park up, loosen the rear wheel nuts (just 1/4 turn), chock both front wheels, then release the handbrake.
Jack up, remove the wheel, I put a breeze block and block of wood underneath in case the jack fails, then we're ready to go.
Probably didn't need discs, but as changing them is only a little more work that changing the pads, I did them anyway.
Unplug the electric handbrake connector, then remove the 14mm bolts (with a 17mm open ended spanner on the slider to stop it turning).
Remove the pads, remove the carrier (two more 14mm bolts), then tap the disc to get it off the hub. Put on the new disc, transfer the audio wear warning clip (yellow arrow in previous image) to the new pads. Put the new pads back in.
Now it's time to rewind the electric handbrake mechanism. !!!Don't use the tool to force the cylinder, just use it to keep tension on!!!
Check the hydraulic fluid level isn't too close to the top, as retracting the cylinders will push more fluid back into the reservoir. (If it is, dip some clean cotton rag, in the top, and soak some fluid into it. Be careful, as some brake fluid is a really good paint stripper).
There is meant to be a way of retracting the parking brake, via the car.
Something like: switch on/off, toggle handbrake 10 times, toggle auto-hold 10 times. But after an hour, with different waits, and other combinations, I gave up.
Instead I used a small battery (people say a PP3 is enough, but I used a spare motorbike battery).
Slide the caliper over the new pads, and refit the two bolts (14mm bolt head, 17mm on the slider to stop it turning). Then reconnect the handbrake motor connection.
Remove any safety blocks, refit the wheel, do the nuts up as much as you can, then drop the jack.
Repeat all of this for the other side. (Yes I forgot to take all the photos on the right side, so the later ones are from the left).
When all done, and back on the ground, do a final check of the nuts (with a torque wrench if you have one).
Get in the car, turn it on, apply the handbrake. It should take a few seconds to drive the motors to the new biting point. But after that it should release, and apply like normal.
If all good, take for a short test drive, then re-check the wheel nuts are tight.